How You Can Color Fireplace Flames
If you enjoy sitting around your fireplace and watching colorful flames dance, you'll be happy to know you can color your own flames quite cheaply. Basically, there are three methods of coloring fireplace flames. You can soak the logs in an alcohol solution which contains certain chemicals. Or you can soak the logs in a water solution containing certain chemicals and then dry them. And finally, you can just throw certain chemicals into the flames. The various chemicals or salts required for certain colors of flames are as follows:
potassium sulphate (3 parts) and potassium nitrate (1 part) for violet flames
strontium chloride for red flames
calcium chloride for blue flames
magnesium sulphate (Epson Salts) for white flames
baronsalts (borax) for yellowish-green flames
copper sulphate (blue vitrol) for green flames
sodium chloride (table salt) for yellow flames
You may also treat pinecones, coarse sawdust or cork waste and throw them into the fireplace to color the fire. They are far easier to treat and take less time to dry. Here are two methods for treating bases such as course sawdust, pinecones and cork waste.
Best for sawdust - Dissolve the chemical in water. Stir in your base. When the solution is completely absorbed, spread the base out in a thin layer to dry.
Best for cork-based chips - Add 1 pint of liquid glue to 7 parts of water. Crush the chemical to a fine powder and add 1 pound of the powder to each gallon of glue-water. Put into the liquid as much of the sawdust, cork waste or pinecones that it will take, stirring and adding more base until all the liquid has been absorbed. Spread out on a rack to dry.
It is better to treat separate portions of your base with the solution of a single chemical than to treat the base in a single mixture of various chemicals. After drying the separately treated portions of sawdust or cork waste, you can then mix them together in order to achieve distinctly colored flames.
There is no fixed proportion of chemicals to be used to a given amount of water. As much of the powdered chemical should be mixed with water as will dissolve, until you have a saturated solution. The only exception is ordinary table salt (sodium chloride), in which case you should use 1/2 ounce of salt to each pint of water.
Coarse hardwood sawdust is better than pine or other softwood sawdust as a base. Cork waste also makes an excellent base.
To do this you must place the glass under water completely, then with a pair of ordinary scissors, proceed to cut the glass as you would paper or cloth. This method is, of course, not as smooth as job as the methods described above.
Mix together 5 parts oil of rhodium and 2 parts oil of cumin.
In order to prepare a foam of given density, thoroughly mix Polylite 8601 with the necessary amount of Catalyst R1 and water.
This new mold material is much superior to ordinary gelatin (mold glue) and is very easily made. It does not shrink or dry out like ordinary casting gelatins.
Almost everyone has a box of sparkling old buttons from Grandma's sewing chest to marvel at, or set of dominoes, checkers or mah-jongg pieces rescued from a flea market.
This is the age of plastics! One of the most amazing developments in this age of wonders . . . NEW developments and discoveries are constantly being made in the plastic field. Here is a truly rich field for experimentation.
This product is a small plastic vial with screw cap, in which a piece of chemically saturated folded felt is packed.
You can copy any of these Formulas and sell to other Agents, or put them together in packages - under your own name - and sell to Agents.
Use 15 gallon plastic garbage can with clip on lid. You need:
This plastic is particularly adaptable for making molds and light castings requiring tensile strength but very clear outline. It may also be used for making ornaments and novelties. However, as this is flammable, do not use for ashtrays.